Wednesday, October 29, 2014

Post Amsterdam

What a couple of weeks!  It's good to sit still in one place now.
Amsterdam.  It's beautiful, serene yet it's like no place I've been.  The people actually speak and smile on the street and most we came in contact with spoke really excellent English ("you guys", etc)  Beautiful blondes with flawless peachy complexions.  Just a sense of well-being everywhere.  Easy to get around in town on public transit.  Great Van Gogh museum.  Canals everywhere.  I had no idea how many canals  And pretty architecture.  And, needless to say, very accommodating "coffee" houses.  Really wild to be out in the open about it.  Bicycles are ubiquitous and the riders are fierce and fast.  Have to be vigilant as they don't slow down.  All ages.  And there are trams with tracks in the street and it's easy to forget in squares and nearly get run over as they are quiet.

We met Walt at the airport.  Poor thing.  He must be just exhausted.  Hasn't had a moment to breathe.  We came here from the airport via tube.  Then after a couple of hours we went by tube to our departure station.  Had a good lunch there. Took the train to Harwich on the coast and arrived at night right at the departure point for the ferry.  All was well.  We had to walk quite a distance on a gangplank to get to the ferry, go through passport check and customs.  Huge ferry.  We had outside cabins with windows.  Had already booked a three course meal so went on in for that.  Very relaxing.  Off to bed.  Up at 7:30.  Breakfast already booked.  Good buffet breakfast.  Hard not to stuff.  Pan au chocolat, macchiato, eggs, yum.  Caught the train for Amsterdam.  Had to make one train change in Rotterdam.  Pretty long walk to the hotel (poor Walt but he was a trooper). 

Arrived at the hotel and it turned out I had booked the wrong dates.  Instead of the 16th thru the 19th, I booked the 15th through the 18th.  The hotel was full up for the 18th evening.  God, was I humiliated and horrified.  The hotel was able to accommodate us on Sat. night as they'd had two cancellations.  But we had to eat the cost of the extra night.  Expensive.  I was so upset and disappointed in myself.  Walt and Ralph were great about it. 

Luckily the hotel rooms were great.  Spacious as hotel rooms go and very new and clean.  And our room looked out over the river and faced east so we saw the sunrise every day.  I guess all around we were lucky.  I had gone through hell trying to find a hotel and guess I just confused the dates.  Turns out there was this big many day celebration going on in Amsterdam.  It's many days of parties and dancing.  We didn't see it but that and then a major marathon on Sunday. 

We had a great time especially since Ralph did the navigating.  We took a canal cruise first thing.  Alberto, the Dutch are so interesting in that they diverted rivers and made land masses out of marshes.  All of the buildings are on deep pilings they drove into the ground.  How did they drive them into the ground hundreds of years ago?  And they dug the canals with shovels!  How is that possible that ever attempted such a thing?  What a legacy.  And then to imagine the place being over run by Nazis.  How could such a lovely place be infected with such vermin?  We saw Anne Frank's house but the line was too long to go in.  It's on a canal.  That struck me as so odd.  Here she was hiding up in an attic with her family while life in this beautiful city was just outside the door!  I thought a lot about Dirk.  What a weird language.  Lots of guttural sound.

This was definitely the best place I've been.  Of course we saw the red light district.  I was disappointed in this.  The women were in narrow rooms with glass doors below street level.  They were young for the most part and damn.  Ralph and Walt claim they didn't find it inviting.  We were told the name red light came from the prostitutes meeting sailors at the harbor while carrying red lanterns. 

We went to their national museum and to the Van Gogh museum, the botanical garden, and to the gallery district as well as the Jordaan which is a colorful arty part of town.  Better food than London's.

We took the morning train back to the ferry and took the ferry back to Harwich during the day.  Fun being out on the ocean.  The North Sea.  We got seats by the big windows and Ralph read for class while Walt and I periodically got up and wandered around or read.  Walt slept some.  Nice dinner and lunch on board.  Got the train at Harwich and arrived in London about 9? 10?  Drug ourselves back to the flat from the tube station.  Man. 

So Walt spent the night that night and last night and was off to Paris today. He and I worked on his train reservations yesterday and then rode the bus into central London and went to the British Museum.  We saw Etruscan and Egyptian statues and wall etchings.  Very large statues of pharaoh heads and protective spirits---guardians.  I was blown away by the beauty, imagination, skill, and scale of these things. I had no idea.  We contacted Ralph at his work nearby and met him for dinner.  Good time.

Walt hoped to get a connecting train from Paris to Dijon in Burgundy, wine country.  Will be back Friday and has a hotel booked.  He wants to see Abbey Road and to go back to the British Museum. 

Meanwhile, I have been catching up on things.  Washed clothes, paid bills, unpacked.  And we went grocery shopping today.  It took two trips.  Good to be back home.  One of the cats stayed most of the day and then met us at the door as we came in from shopping while the other cat slipped in the door and is here sleeping curled up by the door.  It's cool, very windy, and intermittently rainy.  I am sitting here manipulating my mouth to extract liquid.





































In between

Am reminded by my cousins that I have not posted here in a while.  I have some pix that I tried to post but got interrupted.  Will have to wait till this weekend.  Am off to Oxford tomorrow if I can get up that early.  It's after midnight and I'm not as young as I used to be!  We're spending the night as arranged by some friends who are studying there.  I'm hoping to get a more reasonably priced haircut while I'm there and we are having Tea.  That will be my first in England.  Time is running out and I am trying to get a take on what I want to experience before I leave.  I welcome any suggestions.  I promise to write about it1

Sunday, October 26, 2014

October 26, 2014 London with Walt: National Gallery, National Portrait Gallery, Tate Modern

I am writing this from my East Point living room by the fire, Poesie at my feet, Ralph across the room reading on Friday evening 5:30 12/19/14.

The photos taken at the National Gallery are dated 10/26. This was a Sunday so I am fairly certain this is the day Ralph, Walt, and I went to the National Portrait Gallery to see the William Morris exhibit and then stepped in for a bit to the National Gallery.  Ralph had a particular interest in William Morris.  I believe I'm correct in saying he had an association with the Bloomsbury group, whom Ralph is studying in his Modern British Literature class.  The more I learn about the artists of that time, the more interesting they become.  I snapped these photos for Alberto to see.

Walt and I returned, maybe the following day.  I know we looked for Ralph at FSU and realized his class went until 5.  Walt and I went to the Tate Modern as well but only just got a peek.  We saw at the National Portrait Gallery some interesting portraits by some of the Bloomsbury Group and we discovered the work of the Camden Group of artists.  This was new to me.  Regrettably, we hadn't time to stay long and explore.  Our intention was to return soon.  We failed.  I also remember seeing a wonderful portrait of Paul McCartney by a friend of his brother.

So much yet to see next time we go.

National Gallery10 26 14. 16:09

National Gallery. 10 26 14. 16:02

National Gallery 10 26 14. 14:18

Thursday, October 23, 2014

October 22-Kensington Gardens and Hyde Park

The following is an excerpt from an email I wrote to Alberto.  It's probably more details than most would want to read.  I indulged myself partly because I wanted to record my experience and mostly because I wanted to spend some meaningful time with my good friend.  Here goes.

Yesterday morning the gardener came.  Very likable low key man.  He spent hours here trimming.  While he was doing that, I kicked back and zoned out on the internet.  Lots of interesting, thought-provoking articles.  Ralph came back from class early and wanted to go out exploring.  Surprised me.  I was settled in for the day looking at the photographs I'd taken.  Just now realized I didn't get any of me.  I extracted myself from my stupor and we went to Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens which are adjacent to each other.  It really is wonderful how one can walk to the tube, jump on, and emerge in a different world and near to any place you want.

It was windy and very cool.  I wore my trench coat for the second time.  It was overcast.  Very moody atmosphere.  Ralph was cold.  I was perfectly comfortable.  It was one of those times you don't plan and which turns out to be special.  There was no hurry and everything was new.  There were people around but it wasn't crowded or touristy.  It felt like we were in a private Londoner's place apart from the gawking.  I was so happy being there.  And at last I was not hot.

The two parks are big and adjacent so it is an enormous space.  You could compare the general look of it to Piedmont Park.  Large grassy areas, old trees, lakes, and walks.  Interspaced along the walks are little restaurants with tables and chairs and rest rooms.  People let their dogs run loose and the dogs are so happy.  Also, there were a couple of art galleries.  And monuments.  It was a long, long leisurely stroll.  Geese, gulls, and swans, pigeons.  Infants with their mothers.  A few joggers. 

There is a monument to Albert, Queen Victoria's husband.  I think it could not be more ornate.  Over the top.  I did not care for it.  A larger than life statue of him sitting in a chair high above the ground inside a pergola that is like something you might see in Thailand or India, I imagine.  Albert is shiny and gold.  The pergola is painted in rich designs and comes to a point above his head.  I think there is a cross at the top.  At the four corners are statues of animals and people with each corner representing a part of the empire, I'm guessing (elephants, buffalo, etc.).  Steps leading up to it.  It is at the edge of the park and faces Royal Albert Hall which is a very large round brick building.  There was a graduation happening there, evidently, as there were young people with graduation robes with family members roaming around outside.  The city starts up again at that perimeter. 

If you walk back into the park from there and take a turn through a gate, there is a flower garden stroll which is a straight path with floral plants and trees on either side.  Must be spectacular in the spring and summer.  Was just lovely now.  At the end, you can see the street and cars at a distance.  And turn right to a wide path the size of a street which eventually fronts Kensington Palace where Princess Diana lived, where Victoria was born and raised, and where Prince Harry lives now in a cottage nearby.  It's impressive in it's size, of course, but is surprisingly plain, not pretty.  It's accessible to the public.  I think it would be weird to be persons of such interest to the public as are the monarchy and to live secreted away in private areas in a public place.  This was the royal residence for how long I don't know before Victoria moved to Buckingham Palace.  Must once have been far away in the country from London proper.

We stopped at a restaurant facing a lake and sat drinking some wine at a table on the porch facing the river.  It was dusk and turned to night as we sat there.  We had thought it would be unsafe to be there at night but people were strolling around.  We then walked back to the tube and emerged at Leichester Square which is always, it seems, thronged with people.  It's full of restaurants and small streets. Very jolly atmosphere.  We searched for a street Ralph had found while at school earlier and found there a Mexican Restaurant that turned out to be really good and a fun place to be.  Not microwave and not pricey and definitely not kitschy. 

And then we found the bus stop and rode home where we collapsed a 9:00 to bed. 
I'm here today all day.  Stocked up on groceries.  Hope to get plans written down and organized.  And hope to get photos on the blog.  Lots to do.