Let's see. I've not written since we went to the Tower of London. Posted some pics somewhere but not many. I've imagined the tower for years. There's a, I guess twisted, mystique about that place. It's ancient, loaded with the emotions of many dramatic events and aspirations. I find it alluring. It's strange to me to be a 21st century tourist looking around at execution sites and imprisonment sites for recreation. I tried to imagine what it was like to be Anne Boleyn on a normal day with no Hollywood soundtrack walking out on that brick (was it brick then?) landing having been pitilessly betrayed (well, not entirely pitilessly: Henry VIII imported a French executioner with a sword because Anne Boleyn pleaded with him that she had a horror of the axe) by her husband, the king, and surrounded by an audience of the aristocracy. How strange that life was going on around her as this was happening. And we learned that kneeling for beheading is a Hollywood invention. In fact, they lay down on the ground. I'm a little confused about this now that I think about it. The Beefeater said that the executioner had pity on Anne Boleyn and hid his sword with his sleeve, told his assistant to go get the axe, and when Anne Boleyn turned her head to watch the assistant walk back to a building, the executioner wielded his blade and so cleanly cut off her head that when her head was held up to the crowd the lips were still moving in prayer.
That was not the only execution on that spot. There was a story of a 16 year old woman who, just prior to her execution there, was forced to watch from her balcony as they beheaded her 19 year old husband. And then there is Lady Jane Grey, another of Henry VIII's wives, who was beheaded and then her lady in waiting who was Anne Boleyn's sister (!) was beheaded right after her! There were some others but we're told most of the executions of Tower prisoners took place outside the tower walls on Tower Hill. And beheading was reserved for aristocrats. There were protracted methods for the rabble.
It's a pretty place. Imposing. Oh, and there is an evolving exhibit in the moat and, in some cases, climbing the wall. Each day volunteers place a number of ceramic poppies about 1 1/2 to 2 ft tall. The total number will equal the number of British military personnel who died during WWI. The immensity of the field of flowers set my mind reeling. Really. How could it be? 888,246. It was staggering to take in. And it was especially meaningful in light of having been to the WWI exhibit at the Imperial War Museum. People are being asked to buy a poppy at $25 apiece and will be sent the poppy when the exhibit ends in November. The money goes to military related charities. Want to buy one?
http://poppies.hrp.org.uk/about-the-installation Or read more about it? I'm glad I got to see it.
We had an especially good day that day. I think we may be finally settling in a little. Ralph looked so happy....as he had at the Globe. Wish I could have snapped a picture without his noticing.
We had lunch across from what turned out to be the oldest church in London. We didn't have time to go in. We rushed off to Ralph's meeting with his students. I spent time at the FSU study center online. A faculty member--art history--named Hillary--British--was there also. She asked me if I'd like some tea and brought me two cookies and a cup of tea. How wonderful, don't you think? Do you suppose fate put me there to ask her about auditing her class and I missed my chance? I'd never be so bold. Ask her to let me attend her class for free? She told me the video exhibit we saw at St. Paul's is the talk of the town. By an American artist. I definitely remember it and wish I'd taken a longer look.
The black cat from next door is here taking a bath in the parlor. I've fed him tuna on two occasions today. He took a long nap on the sofa after looking around upstairs. The black and white cat came in as we arrived this afternoon and chowed down. I'd left the door open and in wandered the black cat. Beautiful. I made a photo just now and will try to get the time to post it.
We had a delicious dinner on the day of the Tower at an Indian restaurant near Ralph's work. He said the students were very eager and wanted to know if he was excited about teaching their class. He was honest with them about this being the end of his summer vacation! But he must be excited about THEM they said. Of course, he said.
Yesterday, Ralph met up with an old chum from the Iowa Writers' Workshop. From a long time ago. He is a dean of a college here. Wouldn't that be great? I think so. He has a family, which is nice. They sat in the courtyard where the Courtauld Gallery is located. Ralph tends to be cold so this was a bit hard for him. I, on the other hand, am hot when he's cold. This difference in human body temperature tolerance is reflected in the general population here. Some have on coats, boots, and scarves. Some have on shorts and sleeveless shirts.
Last night we had a good drink at a Camden pub and then went to the tapas bar where we'd gone before...only inside this time. Sooo good. And really nice people.
We tried a different tv show, having given up on "Sherlock". I can't tell you the name but it's about the British ambassador to the U. S. and takes place in the U. S. It's interesting, to put it mildly, (unsettling) to view this show meant for British audiences and infer their view of us. Very gripping drama and intrigue. Sharon Gless of Cagney and Lacey plays the U. S. Secretary of Defense.
Today we had breakfast in Soho or Bloomsbury or was it Piccadilly? Same place as last Sunday. French. Delicious café latte and orange juice. Resisted the pastries. Foolish.
Shopped at Whole Foods nearby. Were prepared with shopping bags. I'd like to get a Whole Foods London or Whole Foods Piccadilly shopping bag but how would I get it home?
Ralph is upstairs working on the syllabi for his classes. Not his favorite thing. I spent some time with Tmobile Support trying to activate video calling on my phone. No. Wouldn't work. I was advised to try Tango and I successfully downloaded it. Trouble is you can only make calls to people who have the same app.
Tomorrow is the first day of classes. And here we go.